[原创]姬菇探源
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<p style="TEXT-INDENT: 21pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0" class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" new="New" New? Roman?; mso-hansi-font-family: ?Times Roman??><font size="5"> 姬菇是幼嫩小平菇的商品名称，栽培农户一般称为“小平菇”。中国姬菇的主产地为河北、山西两省，自九十年代初以来生产稳定发展形成产业化优势，盐渍姬菇一直是中国出口日本的大宗食用菌商品之一。</font></span></p>
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<p style="TEXT-INDENT: 21pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0" class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" new="New" New? Roman?; mso-hansi-font-family: ?Times Roman??><font size="5"> 在日本，盐渍姬菇一般脱盐后，用作蒸米饭的配料，放在米饭上面，米饭蒸熟后拌入米饭内一起食用。食用人群主要是一些保持传统饮食习惯的中老年人，而年轻人一般不太喜欢，因此，姬菇的年消费量比较稳定，并在稳定中略微下降。</font></span></p>
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<p style="TEXT-INDENT: 21pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0" class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" new="New" New? Roman?; mso-hansi-font-family: ?Times Roman??><font size="5"> 中国姬菇的栽培量基本上是每两年一个周期轮回：一年栽培面积很大，下一年又很小，周而复始。由于每年出口日本的数量基本上变化不大，造成盐渍姬菇国内市场价格的高一年低一年的波动。不过，近几年盐渍姬菇和鲜姬菇的国内市场逐渐打开并不断扩大，使姬菇市场不再单纯依靠日本市场。</font></span></p>
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<p style="TEXT-INDENT: 21pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0" class="MsoNormal"><font size="5"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" new="New" New? Roman?; mso-hansi-font-family: ?Times Roman??> 姬菇在日本被称为“シメジ</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">”，罗马音标为“</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US">shi me ji</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">”。在百货商店、超市等销售场所标注的“九州シメジ</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">”、“岐阜シメジ</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">”等，是各地平菇的商品名称，一般所说的“シメジ</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">栽培”也是指“平菇栽培“。</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<p style="TEXT-INDENT: 21pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0" class="MsoNormal"><font size="5"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'"> 在日本，</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" new="New" New? Roman?; mso-hansi-font-family: ?Times Roman??>“シメジ</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">”最初是指“</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-language: JA" lang="JA">本シメジ”</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">，罗马音标为“</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US">Hon shi me ji</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">”学名“</span><span style="mso-hansi-font-family: 宋体; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US">Lyophyllum shimeji</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" New? Roman?; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体?>”，是一种离褶伞类食用菌，是伞菌目白蘑科的一种外生菌根菌，人工极难栽培，自然界中天然的很少很珍稀，所以是一种高级野生食用菌，基本上流通市场上没有销售。</span><span style="mso-hansi-font-family: 宋体; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<p style="TEXT-INDENT: 21pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0" class="MsoNormal"><font size="5"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" New? Roman?; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体?> 在日本市场上称为</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">“</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-language: JA" lang="JA">本シメジ”</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">流通的食用菌，实质上是人工栽培的“</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-language: JA" lang="JA">ブナシメジ</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">（橅占地）”，学名：</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US">Hypsizygus marmoreus (Peck.) Bigelow</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">，罗马音标为“</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US">Bu na<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>shi me ji</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">，在国内市场上称为真姬菇、玉蕈或蟹味菇。后来日本为了与野生的原来意义上的食用菌相区别，在流通上统一标注为</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US">“</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-language: JA" lang="JA">ブナシメジ</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US">”</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">。</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<p style="TEXT-INDENT: 21pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0" class="MsoNormal"><font size="5"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" new="New" New? Roman?; mso-hansi-font-family: ?Times Roman??> “シメジ</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">”的日语发音（罗马音标）是“</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US">shi me ji</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">”，我估计中国第一个引入这种食用菌的业者是取了日文名称的最后一个音节“</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US">ji</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">”而得名“姬菇”。“姬”字汉语的意思之一是美女，但是在日语中，是娇小可爱的意思，这是不是当初命名人在了解日语并对幼嫩小平菇的了解的基础上，精心取名并被我们大家广泛接受的结果呢？</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<p style="TEXT-INDENT: 21pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0" class="MsoNormal"><font size="5"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'"> 另外，真姬菇是不是在姬菇引进中国之后引进，而且为了和姬菇区别而取名“真”</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US">+ </span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">“姬菇”呢？记得九十年代中期作为恩师的助手参与日本食用菌实验栽培项目时，其中一个日本食用菌品种就是</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US">“</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-language: JA" lang="JA">ブナシメジ</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US">”</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">，为了求得中文名称翻阅了大量的文献资料后才知道是“玉蕈”。数年后市场上出现“真姬菇”，对照图片发现就是当年的</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US">“</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-language: JA" lang="JA">ブナシメジ</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US">”</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'">。</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<p style="TEXT-INDENT: 21pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0" class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'MS Mincho'"><font size="5"> 由于手头资料有限，不准确的地方请各位老师和朋友指正，谢谢！<br/><br/></font><font size="3">下图1：</font><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-language: JA" lang="JA"><font size="3">本シメジ，“<span style="mso-hansi-font-family: 宋体; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US">Lyophyllum shimeji</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" New? Roman?; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体?>”，是一种离褶伞类</span><br/></font></span></span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'MS Mincho'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p><br/><br/><br/>下图2：真姬菇<br/><br/><br/><br/>下图3：姬菇，又名小平菇<br/><br/> <span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" New? Roman?; mso-bidi-font-family: AR-SA? mso-bidi-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 宋体; ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language:>
<p class="MsoPlainText"><span style="mso-hansi-font-family: 宋体; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US"><strong><span style="mso-spacerun: yes"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" New? Roman?; mso-bidi-font-family: AR-SA? mso-bidi-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 宋体; ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language:>玉蕈离褶伞</span> ，学名：</span>Lyophyllum shimeji (Kawamura) Hongo<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p></strong></span></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText"><span style="mso-hansi-font-family: 宋体; mso-bidi-font-family: 宋体" lang="EN-US"><o:p><strong> </strong></o:p></span></p>日本有一句著名的俗语，称<span lang="EN-US">“</span>松茸香，占地美<span lang="EN-US">”</span>（香り松茸、味占地），这表明玉蕈离褶伞的味道十分鲜美，味道鲜美胜过松茸，是稀少且高级的食用菌，在日本清汤（すまし汁）、蘑菇饭（キノコご飯）、奶油炖菜中都有使用，烤食尤其味美，被日本人认为是食用菌的珍品</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" New? Roman?; mso-bidi-font-family: AR-SA? mso-bidi-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 宋体; ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language:>。占地的鲜味来自其富含鲜味物质单磷酸鸟苷、谷氨酸和天冬氨酸</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" New? Roman?; mso-bidi-font-family: AR-SA? mso-bidi-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 宋体; ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language:>。天然的玉蕈离褶伞非常珍贵</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" New? Roman?; mso-bidi-font-family: AR-SA? mso-bidi-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 宋体; ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language:>，是松茸价格的数倍。</span> <p>好<br/></p>
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